Shingling a Roof

by: Mark J. Donovan

Shingling or roofing a house is a major undertaking for a homeowner and extreme caution is required. This said, a Do-It-Yourselfer homeowner can shingle or roof their own home with a little knowledge and the right tools.

Required Tools

In order to roof a house properly and safely the following tools are needed: Ladders, Roof Jacks, Hammer, Carpenters Knife, Chalk Line, and preferably a compressor or nail gun.

Estimating Materials

Typically the roof is measured in squares, where a “square” represents 100 square feet. There are eighty shingles in one square. However, when you go to your local home improvement store shingles are usually sold in bundles. Usually three bundles equal one square, however this can vary slightly pending the shingle style.

Measure the area of your roof (length x width) and divide by 100 to get the number of squares required. Then multiply this number by three to get the number of bundles of shingles required for the job. Add an additional 10-15% for spare, leaning toward the 15% if your roof has hips and valleys.

Drip edge, ice and water shield, asphalt paper, flashing, roofing nails, and hip and ridge vents will also be required. The Drip edge comes in various lengths. Measure the outside perimeter of the roof to calculate the drip edge required. The ice and water shield, asphalt paper and flashing come in roles. Use your roof square area calculation for determining your asphalt paper requirements. Typically only one or two courses of ice and water shield is required along the bottom/eave of the roof and in the valleys. Calculate 2 times the length of the roof and valleys to estimate the amount of ice and water shield required.

Typically each shingle will require 4-6 roofing nails and flashing usually comes in 16” wide roles or 6x6 or 8x8 square inch steps. Step flashing is typically used around chimneys, dormers and side wall junctions. Hip and Ridge vent will vary with local building codes, however a rough estimate would be to measure the length of your roof’s hip and ridges and take 75% of this figure for calculating the amount of vent required.

You should now be able to fairly accurately calculate the cost of material for roofing your home.

Installing the Drip Edge

Nail the Drip edge around the entire outside perimeter of the roof.

Apply the Ice and Water Shield Membrane and the Asphalt Paper

Apply the ice and water shield material such that it is flush with the drip edge. If the climate in your area has harsh winters and/or significant annual rainfall, add a second course of ice and water shield for added protection. You should also add the ice and water shield membrane in the valleys.

Next apply the asphalt paper to the entire roof, starting from the bottom and working towards the ridge. Make sure each course of asphalt paper overlaps the lower row by several inches (effectively shingling with the asphalt paper).

Install metal flashing

Install metal flashing in all of the valleys. Step flashing around chimneys and dormers will be added as the shingles are installed.

Installing the Shingles

Start the shingling at the bottom of the roof (or at the eaves). Lay a starter course such that the bottom edge of the shingle lines up flush with the drip edge. The starter strip is a “tabless” shingle that you make from the regular shingles using your carpenter’s knife.

Lay your next course of full shingles over the first course, staggering the starter joints from the first course to prevent water penetration.

Note: Sometimes you may want to start with a full or a partial shingle at one end. In either case, you want to try to avoid small shingle pieces at the far end of the roof. To prevent this, divide the length of the roof by the length of a full shingle and assess how much of a shingle length you want to start with. Ideally you do not want to have pieces smaller than 12”.

Use a Chalk Line

To ensure your shingle courses run straight use a chalk line. Measure the finished reveal on your shingles. Usually this is about 5 inches. Then make marks every 5 inches on the gable ends of the roof. Snap a chalk line between the gable ends at each pair of marks all the way up the roof. This will ensure that you shingles run true and straight as you progress up the roof with the courses.

Vertical lines should also be snapped every 3 to 6 feet to ensure your tabs maintain alignment.

Use of Roof Jacks

After 3 or 4 courses of shingles have been installed using ladders, roof jacks may be necessary to access the upper courses. Roof jacks are steel brackets that hold planks in position for you to stand on. The roof jacks should be securely nailed through the decking and into rafters to ensure that they will support your weight.

Shingling Valleys, Chimneys, Skylights and Dormers, and Step Flashing

Shingling the valleys and installing flashing requires extra care. The shingles, typically coming from two intersecting courses when entering a valley, need to overlap each other such that no water penetration occurs.

Skylights, chimneys and dormers must be step flashed (step flashing is interleaved with each course of shingles) to ensure water is kept from penetrating the roof.

Adding the Ridge Vent and Caps

To complete the roofing project, ridge vents need to be installed. These are nailed to the top of the ridge and then capped.

The ridge cap prevents water from entering the home via the ridge vent, while still allowing the house to breath. The ridge cap is constructed out of individual shingle tabs that have their unfinished corners cut off at 45 degree angles. Each modified shingle tab, is nailed such that it overlaps the previous piece as you work your way down the length of the ridge vent.

About The Author Over the past 20+ years Mark Donovan has been involved with building homes and additions to homes. His projects have included: building a vacation home, building additions and garages on to existing homes, and finishing unfinished homes. For more home improvement information visit http://www.homeadditionplus.com and http://www.homeaddition.blogspot.com.

Painting Kitchen Cabinets

by: Ken Morris

Kitchen cabinets are one of the most expensive items in home remodelling. Cabinetry costs more than replacing the kitchen furniture in many cases. If you can afford the expense, there are a wide variety of designs and styles available to update your cabinets. You can add extras like a kitchen island, lazy susan, or built-in appliance centers.

If replacing the cabinetry is too expensive for your budget, refacing is a less expensive alternative. Refacing involves replacing only the cabinet doors and exposed wood areas of the cabinets. The insides are left as they are to save money on the job. Painting is the least expensive option and can give the room new life. The job can be easily done over a long weekend with the right preparation.

You will need to decide if you will paint the entire cabinet, inside and out, or just the outside and the doors. To save time, consider leaving the inside of the cabinet alone, you won’t be able to tell the difference.

Preparing the Cabinets

Start by removing all hardware from the cabinets and remove the doors. Mark the doors, so you will remember which door goes on which cabinet. This will save you time and prevent aggravation later. Protect the countertops and floor with drop cloths, old bed sheets or plastic sheeting. These can be taped in place, especially on the floors. If you will be replacing the flooring, paint the cabinets first.

Clean the cabinets thoroughly before painting. This is important. Grease and oils from cooking will prevent the paint from adhering properly. You could end up with an uneven color. A wood cleaner with orange oil works well for breaking down grease residue. Be sure to let the surface dry thoroughly before you begin to apply the primer.

Primer is an important step in the process. It provides a smooth, even surface for the paint to adhere properly. Use a roller for larger areas and a brush for small areas. Be sure to coat all areas, including the underside of the cabinets. Consider using sawhorses for priming and painting the doors, for an easier time and a more even coverage.

Allow the primer to dry thoroughly before you begin to paint. Overnight is generally sufficient for the primer to dry. Apply the paint in thin coats. It’s better to apply a few thin coats than to use one thick coat. Allow twentyfour hours between coats for the paint to dry completely. Sand with a fine grit sandpaper between coats.

When the paint has dried completely, you are ready to put the doors back on and replace the hardware. Consider updating the hardware to match your new look. Door handles and hinges are inexpensive and can make a big difference in the look of the room.

Choosing Paint for Kitchen Cabinets

Don’t skimp on the paint. Use high quality paint that is right for the surface being covered. This will be different for wood or metal cabinets. If you’re not sure, ask for help at the paint store.

In general, you will want to use enamel paint. You have a few choices in the finish. Gloss, semi gloss or satin finishes are most commonly used. The higher the gloss, the stronger the finish and the easier it will be to clean. If you want less shine, consider the semi gloss finish.

Safety When Painting

Be sure to paint in a well ventilated room. Do the job when the weather is warm enough and leave the windows open.

Wear long pants and a long sleeve shirt to protect your skin from the paint. Plastic gloves can be worn to protect the skin on your hands.

Wear safety goggles to protect your eyes from paint and fumes.

About The Author Ken Morris works for the http://www.kitchen-cabinets-tips.com internetsite. Amongst his works he is mostly focusing on information about remodeling and kitchen design.

The Air Mattress of the Future is Here!

by: Michael Johnson

An air mattress is no longer just a cheap blow-up bed for camping, but a luxurious and comfortable bed that can compete with the old box spring or foam mattress beds for quality and comfort. Air mattresses can be adjusted to your ideal firmness or softness, unlike beds of old.

According to the dictionary an air mattress is an inflatable mattress, usually made of some type of plastic material. After reading this definition it doesn't make you want to rush out and purchase one. After all, who wants to sleep on a cold piece of plastic? But the air mattresses of today are so much more than a large rectangular plastic balloon. They even offers options not available to box spring or foam mattress owners.

A cheap air mattress can be deflated and rolled up and is ideal for camping trips. They can also be very handy to have around the house as a temporary place to sleep for extended family and guests. But when it comes to real luxury and real comfort the newer air mattresses of today have no peers.

Deluxe air bed mattresses are made for the home and are designed with one thing in mind, comfort. Sure, they may be made of plastic, but that cold plastic is covered with soft and luxurious fabrics that can help you realize the most relaxing night's sleep in a very long time. Plus, they come in all regular sizes including twin, full, queen and king and will typically use the standard size sheets. No need to search high and low for bed sheets in hard-to-find sizes.

The more expensive ones have high quality pumps that come attached, allowing for easy and quick inflation or deflation. Pump them up by pushing a button and then deflate them by pushing another button. Adjust the firmness or softness with one finger. It couldn't get any easier unless you had someone else push the button for you. And deflating them entirely can be done in a matter of seconds. It should be noted that not all brands and models have pumps. If you are strapped for cash you can certainly find a cheap one that must be inflated manually. These cheap brands can save you some money and give you more exercise than you want, both at the same time.

A top-of-the-line air mattress will contain additional features for comfort, luxury and ease-of-use. Some include separate hand-held firmness controls for each side of the bed. If one person likes it firm and the other prefers soft, both can be satisfied with separate firmness controls.

By simply pushing a button one sleeper can adjust their side of the air mattress to any level of desired firmness, from extra firm to soothingly soft, all without affecting the other sleeper's comfort.

One of the more popular air bed mattress manufacturers is Select Comfort. They have Sleep Number Beds that use uniquely designed air chambers to provide a gentle cushion of support which can be easily adjusted to the sleeper's preference for comfort and firmness. In addition, the Sleep Number bed allows couples to individually adjust their own side to the precise comfort level that they prefer.

If you enjoy having a pillow top on your mattress you will be happy to know that you can fit your deluxe air mattress with the same types of pillow tops, sheets, blankets, pillows and comforters that you have grown to love on your spring or foam bed.

The air mattress has all of the positive attributes that make sleeping relaxing and comfortable. But the air mattress has additional comfort features that cannot be found on other types of beds. If you are looking for luxury there is no need to look any further, the air mattress beds of today have everything necessary to ensure a good night's sleep. Sleeping is something that you will start to enjoy again.

About The Author Michael Johnson has compared all types of air mattress, box spring and foam beds. He loves the comfort of the air bed mattress more than any other. For more information about the air mattress visit http://www.myairmattress.com.